HAMPI
Writing from Hampi Monday 28 February
I seem to remember having written about the journey earlier, an experience in itself. Rickshaw drivers were touting for the privilege of bringing you the 12km to Hampi village and were competing hard for price we eventually paid 80rp rejecting the young man who hassled us as we got off the train, the reason is that they hope to get you to take much more lucrative day trips around this large site. Anyway we are pleased with our choice, the first good sign was that he was prepared to stop and help another driver who had broken down with a flat tyre, he gave up his own spare. Later on he would in turn get help when he had a problem with a petrol blockage, a plausible problem in this dusty atmosphere. Anyway he brought us direct to Padma guesthouse, which has proved to be an excellent choice - though not cheap by the standards of the hotels in the towns in mid Karnataka. Still 1500rp is not bad for a room well cleaned before arrival and 1800 using the fitted a/c, which we only used the last night seeking for some way of easing Joan's chest related sleeping troubles.
It certainly was a lot cooler and Joan came to the conclusion that the problem was being made more difficult because of the dry air and started to cover her mouth with a wet flannel. Not much sign of improvement yet but here's hoping for a quiet night on tonight's train to Bangalore. We have paid a half rate to keep the room till this evening, we leave at around 7.30pm for the station and will join a French couple from the Jura who have changed their ticket so as to be travelling on the same train rather than the much slower one that they originally booked.
We booked the rickshaw to take us to the two World Heritage sites at Hampi, 500rp for a 4 hour day , the ticket fee 250rp each which covers two W H sites at opposite ends of the complex so long as they are visited on the same day. Although one is a reasonable prospect for an easy 1.5km walk along the river (Joan has just been in to tell me it's beautiful so we are going to walk by the river in the cool of the afternoon before leaving)
We also agreed to a further afternoon trip for another 800rp but found the early part very hot and not very inspiring and I had come to the conclusion that I was now Over Templed in much the same way as one becomes Over Watted in Thailand. That trip was however saved by its raison d'etre a couple of hours spent waiting for the sunset at a remote temple on a hill surrounded by huge boulders with a panoramic view of rugged hills, valleys full of paddy fields and the sound of 'monks' making music in the nearby temple (Ragunhatha?)
I seem to remember having written about the journey earlier, an experience in itself. Rickshaw drivers were touting for the privilege of bringing you the 12km to Hampi village and were competing hard for price we eventually paid 80rp rejecting the young man who hassled us as we got off the train, the reason is that they hope to get you to take much more lucrative day trips around this large site. Anyway we are pleased with our choice, the first good sign was that he was prepared to stop and help another driver who had broken down with a flat tyre, he gave up his own spare. Later on he would in turn get help when he had a problem with a petrol blockage, a plausible problem in this dusty atmosphere. Anyway he brought us direct to Padma guesthouse, which has proved to be an excellent choice - though not cheap by the standards of the hotels in the towns in mid Karnataka. Still 1500rp is not bad for a room well cleaned before arrival and 1800 using the fitted a/c, which we only used the last night seeking for some way of easing Joan's chest related sleeping troubles.
It certainly was a lot cooler and Joan came to the conclusion that the problem was being made more difficult because of the dry air and started to cover her mouth with a wet flannel. Not much sign of improvement yet but here's hoping for a quiet night on tonight's train to Bangalore. We have paid a half rate to keep the room till this evening, we leave at around 7.30pm for the station and will join a French couple from the Jura who have changed their ticket so as to be travelling on the same train rather than the much slower one that they originally booked.
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| Views from bedroom verandah |
We booked the rickshaw to take us to the two World Heritage sites at Hampi, 500rp for a 4 hour day , the ticket fee 250rp each which covers two W H sites at opposite ends of the complex so long as they are visited on the same day. Although one is a reasonable prospect for an easy 1.5km walk along the river (Joan has just been in to tell me it's beautiful so we are going to walk by the river in the cool of the afternoon before leaving)
We also agreed to a further afternoon trip for another 800rp but found the early part very hot and not very inspiring and I had come to the conclusion that I was now Over Templed in much the same way as one becomes Over Watted in Thailand. That trip was however saved by its raison d'etre a couple of hours spent waiting for the sunset at a remote temple on a hill surrounded by huge boulders with a panoramic view of rugged hills, valleys full of paddy fields and the sound of 'monks' making music in the nearby temple (Ragunhatha?)
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| Lotus Mahal |
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| Elephant stables |
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| Vitthala Temple |
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| Viruppaksha Temple in main bazaar |
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| Raghunatha Temple to watch the sun set |
Hampi Bazaar
The Sunday the rickshaw driver and I had reserved for watching England play India at Bangalore in the World ODI Cup. What a match that turned out to be, to watch England get a tie on the last ball of the match from the jaws of a win was a new experience for me, in a game I had thought they had no chance was a cliff hammer to say the least. I now think England can beat India for England were very unlucky in the muscle injury to Ian Bell after which he surrendered his wicket thinking he had either to hit boundaries or let someone else have ago. A consequence which broke the concentration of Andrew Strauss for just one second in a day's cricket, so two key wickets were lost at a time when everyone thought England were cruising to victory and the ground was emptying, but those who left early missed a great number of twists as first India regained the initiative then England fought back. Still neither side deserved to lose such a high scoring game. The lack of free to air cricket is surely one of the big errors since that first Ashes win with Flintoff, Jones and Co. In 2 days time I hope to be watching England beat Ireland at Bangalore, ha ha!
Hampi like the whole of central Karnataka needs a much better tourist infra structure. There are perhaps 10 or more restaurants but all of them choose to try to satisfy everyone from Israeli to European, to Indian to Chinese to non alcoholic, to you name it and there isn't a really decent restaurant between them, We have given our trade mainly to Sree Venkateshwara mainly because I spotted a few Indian faces amongst the mainly western faces in this town of tourists. They are quite good at Indian food, though it takes ages but not as long as the hour needed to produce a pizza when we were virtually their only customers at 9pm. Their saving grace is that the waiters are cricket enthusiasts huddled around the TV. I guessed they would have been happy to have escaped yesterday and so it proved, in spite of a very controlled century by 'the little master' Sachin Tendulcar - but Strauss bettered him and Jimmy Anderson might have had Sehdag, who hit 175 in his previous game out three times from mishit edges in the first five balls of the match. Incidentally in earlier days around 1964 at Old Trafford I had seen England snatch defeat from the jaws of victory at Old Trafford in one of the most celebrated finishes in Ashes cricket. The villain this time was young Richie Benaud, or Brian Close as the would be sweeper whichever you prefer, it still amazes me to see the risks they take with sweep (and reverse sweep) nowadays!
I'm off to see Joan and to make one final stroll around a town which grows on you.
See you soon
Signing off for this visit
Brian
BEGALURU again for Cricket One Day World Cup, England v Ireland, 2nd March 2011
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| Gandhi of course. Park close to cricket stadium |
World Cup Finals for One Day Internationals turned out to be Ireland's finest hour on cricket (hurling) field
What a way to finish a holiday on the very last day until 10.30 at night with the most exciting sporting event I have ever seen. England appeared to be cruising to victory, with Ireland at 111-5 and way behind the clock in chasing a total of 328 for victory, when in stepped Kevin O'Brien and immediately announced his arrival with two sixes in two balls off England's best and most economical bowler Graeme Swann and continued in the same vein until he had smashed the World Record for the fastest hundred from the 66 balls of revered Australian Opening bat Matthew Hayden to an unbelievable 50 balls. In so doing it was now Ireland who were in the driving seat so he started to play more cautiously to ensure that victory was theirs and setting a new record for the highest winning total for the side batting last.
Joan and I have both many Irish friends from our days in Canada the 50's when the vast majority of 'our' crowd were Irish. Those were the days, now sadly returning, when the Irish still emigrated in mass for lack of work at home. We had gone expecting to see England win with ease but we switched sides and jumped to our feet to join the sole Irishman in our section of the crowd to urge them along. It was exhilarating stuff. Only the next day did Joan recognise one of our air hostesses from the night before and she told me the captain (pilot) had been there too alongside us - but they were both supporting England.
EPILOGUE
Joan had expected her cough to magically disappear on getting home, but a week later it still hasn't happened, though it is far past its worst. Following discussion with eldest son Jim and the recognition that we independently had had the same thought we have concluded that we suffered from Hopping Cough which is said to be very hard to clear and may last 100 days. That would explain the severity and longevity of what we and particularly Joan, had been through. Pat Herbert and daughter Judy both suggested I may well have taken the infection out since similar symptoms were common in Swansea around Christmas, given an incubation time of three weeks even that is plausible. So maybe Joan was wrong to assign all the blame to the Indian environment. I for one would be happy to go again.
NOTES of FINAL THOUGHTS
Thoughts which should be developed include the very aggressive approach that India are making to frighten people away from smoking, which seems to be working.
The issues of corruption are uppermost in the days political news stretching to the highest level of government and the judiciary, particularly the issuing of 2G licences for knock down prices and in many instances to firms who appear to have no intention of carrying out their obligation to develop implementations but merely to sell on their rights at high profits.
The cash hand out to the millions who had no other income but at the tiny rate of 19p ? per day. They are guaranteed 100 days work per year at minimum wage?
Food inflation stood at the annual rate of 18%. By the time we left inflation worries across the spectrum were reflected in a rapid 20% fall of the Sensex Mumbai Stockmarket index from previous high levels.
Most Indians first language is from the local area eg Tamil in Tamil Nadu and Kannada in Karnataka the state we visited. Those 66% of the population who attend government primary schooling learn a second the Indian national language Hindi. The remaining 34% are not educated. University education is taught in English, and many benefit from families who speak to them in English from birth so they are as fluent as us natives.
India is carrying out a Census of its population at this moment and our questionnaire arrived through the post in Swansea yesterday, it would be interesting to compare the detail as well as the population estimates. It always amazes me how China and India have such high populations and how large the estimates are of the population in their cities.
Black Money, that on which Indian tax has not been paid.
Definition
Unaccounted for and untaxed cash generated by dealings in a black economy, black market, or organised crime. Holders of black money try to convert it into legitimate ('clean' or white) money through money laundering.
Naxalites are Militant Communists
Bonded Labour and sexual abuse as cruel (slave) way of repaying debts
37% of population Below Poverty Line food, health, education.
25% Below Poverty Line based on food (starvation) alone - 300rp per month
37%? live on below 20 rp per day
Food Security Law
Between 90 % and 47% literacy by state, highest Kerala (at 90% of 32 million population) and lowest Bahir (47% of 82 million population)
We suffered several power failures per day in many parts of Karnataka
First Language in Tamil Nadu is Tamil, in Kerala is Malayalam, in Karnataka is Kannada
Costs for year 2011
Flights London Bangalore £859
Visas £86
Single Trip Insurance £312
National Express Heathrow £46
Arora Hotel Heathrow £55
Expenditure in UK £1358
Expenditure in India £2113 £38/night (56)
Total for 58 days £3471 £60/day (58)
Note expenditure in 2010 Tamil Nadu and Kerala was £48/night (56 nights) and total was £4184 or £72/day(58) but includes annual insurance of £658 (Turkey 35 days +India 58 days).
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